The best hairstyles for thick hair, according to barbers
The ultimate guide to scoring a new ‘do, as told by the guys who cut it for a living.
By Ollie Cox
When it comes to best hairstyles for thick hair, there’s a few things to consider. Thick hair can make certain styles harder to achieve (you probably know that slicking it back is a challenge) and can lead many guys to overdo the products and ultimately damage their hair.
Instead, it’s best to work with your barber to figure out the best approach. But it goes beyond just how your hair looks. What products you use, how often you wash it, and your style of hair cut can all have an impact. We’ve spoken to some top UK barbers for the lowdown on bagging the best hairstyles for thick hair.
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What is thick hair?
The difference between thick and thin hair is a case of the look and feel of the individual strands on your head. And thick hair refers to how wide each individual strand of hair is. It’s easy to get confused with density, which refers to the quantity of hairs on your head. The two can come hand in hand, but it’s not given.
“One thing to remember is that sometimes people get mixed-up between having thick hair and a lot of hair, which is quite different,” says Time Shoreditch’s TJ Hunt. “You can have a lot of strands of fine hair and this doesn’t take as well to extensive texturising or thinning. Check with your barber or stylist first to be sure which camp you fall into.”
What hairstyles work well for guys with thick hair?
If you’ve got thick hair, long and short lengths are where you’re going to thrive. With longer styles, you can let you hair do its thing. And shorter hair helps avoid any disasters by keeping the hair close to your head. Plus it can go a long way in reducing lengthy styling procedures.
“Although thick hair can seem high maintenance and overwhelming, you can count yourself very lucky or having a full head of hair. One thing thick hair doesn't sit well in is an in-between length,” says Charlie Illi, an advanced stylist at Brooks and Brooks in Covent Garden. “You have a choice of either cutting you hair very short, for example a crop cut, buzz cut or having a slightly longer length that lets the hair be heavier and sit flatter. For example, a long shag or quiff-like cut.”
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If you’re going longer adding layers to your hair will remove unnecessary weight “in the correct areas, making sure the shape remains tall and lean. The danger with super thick hair is that it looks too big. By layering the hair with scissors or a feather razor, you can remove the bulk,” says Fella Hair owner Bobby Gordon. “Layered haircuts are very versatile offering a perfect balance of texture, volume and movement. These styles can range from something quite classic to a longer softer look.”
If you want to see the versatility of thick hair, look at guys like Timothée Chalamet who, until recently, was repping some mega medium length curls “using the natural movement for an effortless medium length style,” says Gordon. And if you want to see the versatility of having thicker hair, then look no further than his current closer crop.
Jeremy Allen White keeps his hair a little longer with the “weight removed in the correct places making sure this thick wavy hair doesn’t look too big and wide.” It’s long, loose and curly, with the top kept slightly longer than the back and sides. It’s the kind of thing that most curly haired guys could achieve with a bit of growth. Another option for guys with thicker hair is the mod cut. This closely cropped style helps to reduce the bulk around the sides and back of the head, and it’s pretty versatile, and can be tailored to straight, wavy, and curly hairstyles. But if you’ve got really thick hair, then it “can be hard to get the required flicks, waves and lift which make these looks so distinctive,” says Hunt.
As for IRL proof of how good a quiff can work, look at Patrick Dempsey. “We very rarely see him with short hair. His wavy hair sits perfectly with his long, layered look. We see this right through his younger years to his more recent looks, including his current silver era,” says Illi.
How often should you wash your thick hair
Once you’ve got a cut you’re down for, you need to get your maintenance on lock. But the hair on your head ain’t the same as the rest of your body, and a daily wash could be doing more harm than good. Overwashing can strip your hair of the natural oils and lead to dry and frizzy hair. “To keep thick hair healthy, it’s best to wash it no more than two to three times per week to avoid stripping natural oils.” says Jamie Connolly, Barber Director at WoolfKingsX.
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Thicker hair can feel drier because it can be harder for the natural oils to penetrate the scalp. “Thicker hair also tends to be ‘thirstier,’” says Miles Wood-Smith from Murdock London. To quench this thirst, you need to invest in a good quality conditioner. “It is very helpful to condition your lengths to avoid dryness and frizziness. This can be done quickly with a simple hydrating conditioner or for the more on-the-go guys out there, try using a leave-in conditioner for your lengths and ends”, says Illi.
What styling products should I use for my thicker hair?
Achieving the best thick hairstyles for men obviously requires some styling, depending on whether your hair is long, short, curly or straight. “I would recommend American Crew Matte Clay Spray for short to mid length hair. Also All Purpose Pomade or Clay Pomade by Firsthand can also be used on longer hair. I’d stay away from any volumising products. You don’t want to encourage big hair,” says Gordon.
And if you’re in any doubt, it’s always best to speak with your barber, who will be able to advise on the best products to use for your hair type. Overdoing the heat with straighteners and hair dryers can also hurt your hair. And when it comes to trips to the barber, “be mindful not to over use thinning scissors when having a cut. Too much can damage the structure and make the hair a little frizzy,” says Gordon.
Connolly, Wood-Smith, and Illi all swear by sea salt for when it comes to securing the best hairstyles for thick hair. “Styling should focus on lightweight products, sea salt spray, or soft creams, which enhance texture without making hair greasy. The list of products to be avoided includes heavy waxes, gels, and cheap sulfate-based shampoos, as they can cause buildup or dryness,” says Connolly. “Regular trims, the right tools, and working with a skilled barber or hairdresser can make thick hair much easier to style. By embracing its natural volume and choosing the right cut, thick hair can become a major asset rather than a challenge.”